In 1949 clothes rationing got here to an end for Britain, and vogue was now able to hit the big time. Among the many most ardent devotees of the Chanel look was the American college lady, a breed well-known for its style nonchalance — a nonchalance proved by her keen embrace of the raccoon coat classic 1925 (it had to be seedy or it will not do) and the newly revived Shetland sweater. It seemed that, since the end of World Conflict II, vogue was taking a long time to settle into an accepted type which would stand, historically, as the look of the mid-century; but maybe it was part…